Last Saturday I took a sustainable seafood cooking class at CulinAerie on 14th Street in DC. Local chef Barton Seaver (formerly of Hook and Tacklebox) was the instructor. The class started with a discussion of which fish we should be eating and which we should leave behind to procreate in the ocean. (You know, so we can eat their grandchildren. I'm terrible. No, seriously, so we can save them for our grandchildren.) Turns out, there are lots of sustainable fish. Can't live without salmon? Switch to arctic char, which tastes similar, but with a milder flavor. Here's a link to the list of sustainable seafood. The saddest sight on this list, at least for me, is scallops. They get mixed reviews in terms of sustainability.
Seaver demonstrated how to cook two seafood dishes: arctic char with sorrel butter (recipe below) and whole roasted Spanish mackerel with radicchio. He also made an arugula and mint salad with a roasted lemon vinaigrette and broccoli rabe with cauliflower and potatoes. The mint really added a lovely tasting dimension to the salad. I'm now ga ga for mint in everything. Would you like some mint in your coffee? How about in your cereal?
Interestingly, both fish dishes were slow cooked, a method Seaver recommends. I wasn't sold until I tasted my first bite of arctic char. It was moist and flavorful - I could really taste the fish and I didn't miss the texture of the sear that cooking the fish on high heat would bring. The fish I had in class was remarkably different (as in way BETTER) than the char I ordered at Founding Farmers a few weeks ago.
Here's Seaver adding salt. It was my impression that he likes to add salt to dishes. This is a good thing. The vegetables he cooked during class were phenomenal. Here's the recipe: vegetable+salt+butter+slow cooking. He made a side of radicchio that was off the chain. It's deliciousness surprised me so much so that I couldn't curb my enthusiasm. I burst out and said (really loudly), "THIS RADICCHIO IS REALLY ENJOYABLE." The class was silent. I hate it when I do that.
NO FARMS, NO FOOD. (That's what Seaver's hat said).
My take on CulinAerie: the classrooms were well appointed, with comfortable seats, and high-end equipment. Seaver was a great instructor. Though some times he catches a bad case of Alice Waters (I LOVE YOU ALICE) and gets carried away with his advocacy. I basically agree with him on everything he says about sustainability and supporting small farms I just wonder what everyone else thinks. I'm the choir, even if I do sing off tune once in a while. I'm afraid he might lose people. There has to be a better way to frame food policy issues without sounding out of touch with everyday people/reality. With that said, he was very nice, well-informed, and well-spoken. He put up with all of my annoying questions, like "what's your favorite olive oil?"
My only critique of the class, and I'm not sure how to say this without sounding like a piggy, so I'll just say it: I wanted more food. We got to taste nibbles of everything, but because it was a demonstration, there wasn't enough for a full meal for everyone. I guess this is a common approach for a cooking school (compared to attending a restaurant for a cooking demonstration). For example, I've gone to a few demos at Acadiana and they feed you a complete meal and give you lots of booze (i.e., leave time for a nap after) for about the same price. Still, I would definitely take another class at CulinAerie. I liked the people, and the vibe, and it's in the neighborhood. COOKING SCHOOLS NOT CVS!
Arctic Char with Sorrel Butter and Green Beans and Almonds
Barton Seaver
Ingredients
2 5-ounce Arctic Char files, skin-on
1 tablespoon butter + 1 teaspoon butter
1 pound green beans, washed
3 tablespoons sliced or crushed blanched almonds
Kosher salt
Brine Mixture
1/2 cup kosher salt
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 qts cold water
Sorrel Butter
1/2 pound unsalted butter, room temp
2 teaspoons kosher salt
fresh cracked pepper
1 bunch sorrel, finely sliced
Mash together all ingredients except for the sorrel. When butter is slightly whipped add sorrel and gently toss. Place in an airtight container in refridgerator.
Directions
Combine until salt and sugar dissolve. It should taste a bit like tears.
Being by brining fish for 20 minutes. Remove brine and pat dry.
In a saute pan large enough to hold all the green beans, heat 1 tablespoon butter until golden brown. Add in sliced almonds and cook until lightly caramelized. Add in green beans and toss to combine, and then allow to sit on high heat until green beans become slightly browned.
Place char filet skin-side down on top of green beans, using them like a raft. Add 2 tablespoons of water, and season generously with kosher salt. Turn heat down to low, and cover. Allow to steam for 7 minutes. Remover cover, and remover fish to a warm place. Toss green beans with remaining teaspoon butter and serve immediately.
