"How did you find me?" asked Ha Lu, the owner of Nhu Lan. I pointed to the Washingtonian review on the wall. She smiled and proceeded to wrap up the two banh mi sandwiches I had ordered to go. This was not a question she asked the other customers. That's because the Vietnamese shoppers making their way through the Eden Center already knew the best eateries; they had their favorites. Not me. I was there, an interloper, searching for the best banh mi.
Banh mi, the popular Vietnamese sandwich, has several components: crusty bread (should be soft on the inside and crunchy on the outside), salty meat (grilled pork, head cheese, pate, chicken, and, sometimes available for vegetarians, tofu), tangy condiments (some mix of pickled carrots, daikon, jalepeƱos, and cilantro), and rich and creamy mayo or butter.
The sandwich appears to be the darling of the media, with articles cropping up faster than cupcake shops around DC (here, here, here, and here).
Which makes me think: is the banh mi the new cupcake? Yet another trend that is a little bit old, overused, and tired among the foodie crowd?
It seems that everyone wants to hail a pedi-cab and head to the Eden Center, the Vietnamese shopping center at Seven Corners, where the parking lot mirrors the streets of downtown Saigon: jammed with people trying to get somewhere, fast. You don't have to travel to the Eden Center to try this Saigon sub. DC chefs are reinventing the banh mi by adding upscale versions to their menus.
Unlike cupcakes, which are too sweet for my taste, I wanted in on this fad. So I set out to become a banh mi afficiando. I tasted a few authentic versions from different shops in the Eden Center, washed down a haute version with a glass of Muscadet at a wine bar on U Street, and nibbled on a food truck creation while sitting under a tree in Farragut Square.
Here's my banh mi diary.