How does downtown DC feel about Mark Bittman’s “revolutionary eating” or Michael Pollan’s mantra, “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants”? If the lack of a line at Litestars, the newish healthful lunch place on 18th and L Streets is any indicator, then the answer to that question is not so much with the health food, please.
Litestars is near my office, so I’ve eaten there a few times for lunch. The large "modern bistro" is usually empty and the eagerness of the staff—the look on their faces when a customer, any customer, walks in the door—makes me uncomfortable. I feel bad rejecting an offer of samples, especially from someone eager to please, so despite the fact that I’ve only been a few times, I’ve sampled 80 percent of the menu. January 3rd, the first day back at work after gluttonous holidays, I thought maybe the resolution crowd would show, hankering for a light lunch with a side of health. No bananas. It was the same: a few people at tables eating lunch, but still no line.
So what of the food? With few exceptions, I would say it’s good “every day” eating. Not a place to go if you are starved for a 1500-calorie Chipotle burrito and not a place for emotional eating (try Vapiano's cabonara with campenelle for that one), but a great place to go if you are looking for a little vegan before six o’clock.
I recommend the onion (410 calories) or turkey tartlet (350 calories), both are made with whole-wheat crusts and neither really deserves the word tart in their description. A tartlet is a thin shell that is not flaky or buttery; words usually used to describe tarts. Despite this, the onion tartlet packs the most flavor and offers a light, creamy bite. The turkey is hearty and good for those seeking protein. From the salad selection I’m partial to the tangy, chewy wheat berry salad. Quinoa with beans, jalapeños, and pineapples deserves an honorable mention.
The soups are tasty as well, but remember to BYOS---bring your own salt—because Litestars doesn’t offer any, save for a “salt substitute” I couldn’t bring myself to try. This is where I think Litestars takes it too far. Take my salt away and I might turn into Sarah Palin and declare war on broccoli.
I'm worried about Litestars. Will it last long? I hope so. It fills a much-needed healthy "fast food" niche. It has my vote, at least on meatless Mondays or when I’m trying to get a gold star from Mark Bittman.
